Friday, July 20, 2018

Vacation in Alaska on Moku Iki

 So I don't really know what Vacation is, because I spend most of my time playing around anyways, but this was not working, so it was extra special!  I borrowed my friend's boat for two weeks and Lindsey came up and we set off for Glacier Bay.  We got permits for the bay for 7 days, so I was really excited.  The first thing we did was go and visit the ranger station and sit through a boring video about how to drive a boat in the bay and then we went for a walk around the bartlett cove area, which is really beautiful.  We got to go there once this year with the SEN, but only for a short time and so I didn't get a chance to explore, but this time we looked and walked and it was nice.  Also Lindsey helped build a whale skeleton there and it was nice for her to see the bones again.  Then we set off for Sandy Cove, where we went for a walk and found a super emaciated bear (see above).  Shortly afterwards we found a patch of strawberries and started munching and found a sandpiper nest.
 The next day we went up into the East Arm of Glacier Bay, and this area is a place that few boats go.  I had been up there before with Uncruise three years ago, but the park for the last two years has set that area off limits for the larger boats, so now only really small boats (basically private boats) can go up there.  And since nobody has hunted the animals there for years and years, they are not afraid of boats or humans and we were able to get a good look at a mama with two cubs who was browsing for inter tidal life.  She had a gigantic head, and was a really big bear. 
 Then we went into Wachusett Inlet, which I had never been in before, and at the end of it the chart is all wrong.  I would recommend a low tide approach if you go, because the tidal flat has extended about a mile past where it is charted.  I don't know how this works, but the erosion over the past 60 years has been enough to fill in about 3/4 of a mile across and a mile long and 300 ft deep of silt and sand and rocks into this area.  We could hear the rivers pushing out silt and it falling down the slope at night. 
 We went for a walk up as far as we could go, and I've really wanted to to a transit from this inlet to the adjacent one (called Queen Inlet).  You just go up the tidal flat and get to the glacier, then walk across the face of the glacier and come down the other tidal flat.  At least that is the idea.  In truth, there are enough rivers that its a bit too tricky to cross them all and so we turned back. 
 We did  find some Semipalmated Plovers, and this one was doing a weird dance, testing out the mud with its foot, then pulling up black worms.  I think they are Ice worms. 
 We got back to the Kayak and as the tide was rising and the darkness falling, saw a moose on the far shore, so we went over to look.  It was trying to drink water from a stream, and kneeling down to do it.  I didn't know they did this before.
 Another shot of the moose.
 We also had a few views of some little sandpipers who were nesting around the area, calling out for us to avoid their nests, so we did.
 On our way out Wachusett, we came across a Gigantic bear sleeping on the flat, waiting for some salmon to come up a river.  We drove over to look, and he didn't seem to mind the company at all.
 Then as we came to the mouth of the inlet, we found another bear, and this one turning over rocks.  We approached and then dropped the anchor and sat watching the bear for 30 minutes from about 50 ft away.  I was stunned because the anchoring process is not quiet and the boat is kind of noisy, but this bear would not be perturbed.  Once anchored, the boat is silent, so we could hear the rocks turn over and the crunch of the gunnels (little fish) as they were chomped and eaten, as well as the sound of the bear breathing.  Very exciting!
 We then went up to McBride Glacier, and went for a short walk to see the moraine there.  I had been with the WEX a few times in 2014 and 2015 (with the WND) but not since then, so it was neat to see the differences.  Then we drove down to the West Arm and went up into Tidal Inlet and found a place to anchor for the night where we could see Mt Fairweather.
 It was a long day, we went from two big bears, to McBride for a walk, to Seebree Island for a walk, and then another walk in Tidal Inlet.  It was a sunny day and we were beat.
 A view of the proud Moku Iki from Tidal Inlet.
 So the next day we went up to Queen Inlet and walked up from that side to see if we could make the transit to Wachusett.  It is a big flat and we crossed it like a camel crosses the sahara, thirstily.  We made a short stop on a big rock that pokes up through the flat, where we found the best strawberries I've ever had.  They were wild and warm and on a wonderland of a place.
 There is a lot of Dryas growing all over the flat, and I like the look of it.
 We also found a nesting (I assume) Jaeger that swooped at us and was really difficult to get any pictures of, since it was moving so quick.  I managed this one.
 The tide was rising on our way out and I really liked the color of the water.
 From there we went to Lamplugh, a place I've been many times before, but we wanted to do the ridge hike, since we don't get to do it much anymore.  There were some Oystercatchers on the shore...
 And a few Ptarmigans up the ridge. 
 And a bold baby holding his head up proudly.
 We went way up to the top of the ridge, further than I've ever gone before, so that was nice.  The weather was really hot, so I wore shorts and boots.
 There are a lot of wildflowers blooming, here is a fireweed with Lamplugh in the background.
 Then we went up to Russell Cut and went ashore and built a fire and roasted sausages on the beach, while looking at a nice colorful sunset.  I did this once before with Danny aboard Altair, 9 years ago, so I had to do it again.  After that we went to Gieke Inlet and went for a walk in the misty rain and found a black bear (sadly not a glacier bear) eating some queen anne's lace.    Glacier Bears are known to be found in Gieke Inlet.  They are a black bear that is a bluish tint. 
 Then we went to Cross Sound.  Our first night was in Inian Cove, and we drove past a Fulmar on our way.  Cross Sound is where the Ocean meets the inland waters, and there are swell waves pushing in and the weather is usually tricky, but we managed.
 We cruised around the Inian Islands, went for a walk on Three Hill Island, and went up to Yakobi Island.  There are sea stack all over the place as the waves erode away the rocks.
 We anchored in a little cove and the next morning found a little brown bear that was really busy eating gunnels and we dropped the kayak in the water and paddled over to look.  She was so busy she didn't even mind when we got real close, about 15 ft away from her in the water.  It dropped right off, so we were very protected in the event she took interest in us, but she didn't.
 Here is another shot of her.
 Then we came back by a place where I've seen Horned Puffins before.  I think they nest there.
 I like the little horned puffins a lot.
 And back through the Inian Islands again and found an otter eating a basket star. 
 Here's another view of Lindsey and the lady bear.
Then we went to Dundas Bay and found more bears and a Yellow Billed Loon!  The biggest loon.
It was a very nice trip, we got back to Juneau and the weather is getting really nice and sunny.  I've got a few more days in Juneau before I start work again.

Summertime on the SEN

 I didn't have time to post this two weeks ago, so I'm a bit late for this post.  Sorry.  We have a new Expedition Leader, JP, who I worked with my first year on the WAV in 2013.   He's doing really well in the position and here I have a shot of him eating a whale.  We had been watching a few bears eat a dead whale on the beach and it seemed fitting...
 Then we had a gigantic gravity shift and the glacier fell apart....  Well, I might have forgotten to turn the picture.  Oops.
 And then we saw a wolf!  The only wolf I've seen this summer, trotting along the beach in Endicott Arm, just looking happy with life.  Maybe even wagging his tail a tiny bit.
 From there we went to LeConte Glacier and I did a transit where we got to play around in the ice for a bit before the big boat was set up, just some crew.  It is amazing to be around gigantic ice chunks that are grounded and about to break apart.
 A close up of the ice...
 Then we found some Orcas!
 One came up close to the boat and I got this shot of the bubbles before it hit the surface.
 And of course a few Humpbacks.
 We went to Kake and there is this guy there who is the sweetest old man and he greets everyone as they enter the dance hall.
 Then we went to Sitka and on our way back to Juneau we found more Orcas!  This one is doing double pec slaps.
 And they were feeling frisky...
 Celebrating a fish victory, they flung a headless eel in the air and I got a shot of it!
 I did a nice hike with some folks and found a squrrel
 And some western sandpipers.
 And we went into Glacier Bay and I got a shot of some eagles on ice.
 The second one is a demon eagle, you can see if you zoom in on the eyes...
 And then I went for a kayak at George Island (in Cross Sound) and found a friendly Surf Scoter.
 And a baby Harbor Seal.
 And then we found some hungry Otters.  This one is eating a sea urchin and a basket star.
Then we went to Haines and took a river float trip.  On the end of that trip we saw a harbor seal hauled out on a sand bar, 21 miles up the river from the sea!  this is the furthest I've ever seen a seal up a river.  Quite amazing.  I didn't know they could go this far up.