Wednesday, November 12, 2025

A trip down the Sea of Cortez

I am in La Paz, after nearly a month of sailing down from the north end of the Sea of Cortez.  I started in Puerto Penasco, and got new bottom paint on the boat and a few other things done, and I also got a starlink Mini, which is much better at connecting to the satellites and also uses less power.  Anyway, my friend Nichole arrived and the yard put Aquila in the water...
And off we went!  It was pretty exciting to get into the water, navigate out of the harbor (which is shallow) and be out in a wide open and rough sea, with no place to hide for 100 miles.  So we put up the mainsail and washed the boat (very dusty) and then put up the spinnaker (since I didn't have the jib fitted yet)
It was an overnight right off the bat, but not too bad, and a couple days later we got to Isla Partida, and there were tons of bottlenose dolphins there.  
Its a volcano and it had a great lava dome with awesome basalt formations.
And a few nice lizards
In the evening the dolphins started having a jumping contest
After that we headed towards Isla San Esteban, and found Kevin!  He's a humpback whale (and maybe isn't really called kevin) and came to visit us and play.  He stuck around for an hour at least and kept investigating the boat.
Coming right up and looking around at the keel and the rudders and us.
At San Esteban I got this picture of a rock hatching.  There will be a new rock underneath!
We found some Orcas there as well.
Then we went to Isla Tiburon, which is the biggest island in the sea of cortez, and in all of mexico, I think.  There was a coyote there we found.
And these palo adan, which I think are like medusa hair a bit.  Everything is so green!
Nichole did the classic "pet the barrel cactus" move.  
Sunrise was very nice
We went to San Pedro Martyr, and there were tons of caves and sea lions there, but I didn't get great pictures.  Then we hoofed it down to Isla Tortuga, which was a long day with the spinnaker up.  We made great time though.  
Tortuga apparently has a super high concentration of rattlesnakes, but we didn't test that out.  We did discover the water was super clear and the snorkeling was great.  Its near Santa Rosalia
Then we zipped down to Loreto and went up Tabor Canyon, and found these neat caterpillars. 
I dropped off Nichole in Loreto and picked up another friend, Emily, and we continued the trip.  First, back to Tabor canyon to hike as far up as we could go.  There are lots of cool moths drinking the water
And nice pools to reflect on the world
Some of them were nice to swim in too.
We headed to Carmen after that, and then to Agua Verde, and walked over to a cave with hand paintings in it there, and found some bats!  I've seen bats in this cave before, but it seems only in the early fall before people start coming down to visit the cave.
On the way back we found some quail.
The desert is blooming and full of greenery now, right at the end of the wet season.
And we had a nice vulture sunning its wings
Then over to Isla Santa Catalina, to visit the giant barrel cactus there.  
Some of them are dancing
The next day it was very calm and we motored around and found some dolphins.  They rode the bow and we marveled at them, then got into the skiff and had some more bow riding from closer, then jumped out of the skiff and swam with them a bit before they continued on their way.  I dove down into the ocean a ways, in thousands of feet of water, a hundred feet away from the skiff and a mile from the sailboat, and 5 miles from land.  It was amazingly freeing.
Then we went to santa cruz island and found some more caves to explore
and found a marlin the next morning cruising by
Then to isla San Diego and looked around there, and snorkeled at the reef off the south point, which is the best snorkeling I think I've done here ever.  
Then on to Punta Colorado, and had a great time exploring and a wonderful sunrise on the red rocks.
It was a full moon the next day too.
We went to a canyon that doesn't have a name as far as I know, and hiked up it a long ways to finally find some water, but also found a lot of what I think is copper.  
And then we found some Sperm whales and another group of Orca!
Finally we headed down to Espiritu Santo and had a nice hike in the sunset
Up a hill.  
I've been having a great time traveling with such good friends, and now I have a few days alone in La Paz before another friend (Teague) comes down to help me sail over to Vallarta.  Its a busy fall, but it feels good to share adventures and Aquila with friends.  
 

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